The Guide Michelinswho distributed his distinctions, only remembers to reflect in Madrid with a star three oriental options (RavioXo, Ugo Chan, Zuara Sushi), as if that were his only relevance.

It must be a consequence of the discrepancy between the formal criteria of the restaurant guide inspectors and the consideration –perhaps more subjective, diverse and spontaneous– of those of us who are going to eat. In addition to the periodic territorial differences (yesterday, Valencia; today, Barcelona) and the personal predilections (Martín, Quique, Dabiz) that are so noticeable.

Nothing to object, of course, to the heyday of the Atrio de Cáceres restaurant in the Michelin category, where Toño Pérez and José Polo have maintained two stars for 18 years that many –including the owners themselves– were satisfied with. In the culinary sphere, he apologized for a certain immobility in his meat proposal reaffirmed in the Iberian pig, although its gastronomic and scenic splendor was unsurpassed in another order of things. The decisive recognition of the three stars to Javier and Sergio Torres, whose progress, versatility and professional enthusiasm in all areas has led to their current colossal facility where they operate in physical and mental proximity, surrounded by customers full of curiosity, is also not free. It is the resounding, stimulating and safe place in a Barcelona that has been quite deteriorated lately. In the photo below, the Torres brothers celebrate their third star.

The main disagreement consists in the lack of attention to the gastronomic potential of Madrid, whose vitality is unquestionable and competitiveness thrives in places with a strong contemporary, local and cosmopolitan gastronomic identity at the same time. As in the Coque restaurant of the Sandoval brothers, where so many professional merits attend and a stable clientele accredits. And in the cases of Roncero, Freixa, D’stage or Smoked, places with splendor and accredited culinary solvency that are perpetuated on the eve of absolute stardom. While Michelin only remembers to reflect in the capital of the country, with one star, three oriental options (RavioXo, Ugo Chan, Zuara Sushi) as if in fact, together with the only three stars in the capital of the country –also of fundamental oriental– that was its only relevance, a model of quality or culinary format, with which the copious clientele of Madrid enjoy, something quite close to disqualifying the local flavor. Two stars in a year and a half, yes, adds Deessa, to the greater glory of the multinational Mandarin, which operates in the Ritz in Madrid, while Pepe Vieira in Galicia and Juan Carlos Padrón in the Canary Islands grow, in the same way, authentic examples of laborious and well-understood individual progress.

The Michelin gala, this time held in the spectacular Palacio de Congresos de Toledo, was, in any case, a prodigy of entertainment enriched with professional and emotional testimonials that reveal the splendid topicality of the gastronomic trade and its popularizing component from the most universal emblem and accredited. It also had a magnificent culinary and oenological display, in tasting doses, prepared and served by the chefs themselves from Castilla-La Mancha, full of inspiration and excellent tone, very consistent with the rank of the event.


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J. A. Allen

Author, blogger, freelance writer. Hater of spiders. Drinker of wine. Mother of hellions.

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