That Schwarzenberg is sprawling and not just the postcard-perfect town center became clear to me when I interviewed Peter Girardi, co-founder of SMO-Reha, the first private organization in the country dedicated to neurological rehabilitation. “Simply via the Achrain tunnel to Alberschwende, then turn sharp left,” he said on the phone, emailing a Google Maps plan to be on the safe side. Neither I nor the photographer found their way around the plan, we got hopelessly lost, ended up on a gravel road somewhere in Alberschwende, which went steeply uphill – impossible to do without four-wheel drive. A young man who was just clearing the last grass from a bluff was amazed when we showed him the plan. “Gonz leatz,” he said, pointing in a different direction. We finally arrived at the hut we were looking for on the Vorsäß, very late, where a gentleman in a brightly colored shirt with a geometric pattern waved to us.