A bit the Halston case … Right?
Yes, but in his case they paid him millions. In Spain we have had the greatest, Balenciaga, Pertegaz, Elio Berhanyer, Pedro Rodríguez, Loewe … and the industry has not protected many of them, it has not helped them. They have left marks to die. Every time I think of Elio, who was a great in Paris … Spanish designers reached very high and there has been no one to take that up again.
How do you see the evolution of those brands?
I’m a dreamer and I liked the old Balenciaga better, with those patterns, some qualities… I read that he hadn’t evolved because he only dressed rich women. And it could have opened more market as Valentino or Dior has done. That way of being so radical… it doesn’t fit me.
Doesn’t the same thing happen to you? You are the favorite of the jet.
You’re right. But I must confess that when I started on this, that there were Juanjo (Oliva), Carmen (March), David (Delfín), I remember there was a very feared journalist on the front row and there were people who were very afraid of his criticism. I lived with that fear and he wrote about me: “The designer who makes clothes for cocks.” And I took it awful. The others were modern and I was not. But little by little I realized that I shouldn’t be obsessed with criticism and that I don’t bet on disguise, if that’s avant-garde… I like my clients. I do not want people in disguise, one day I may find it funny, but I prefer a stylish one with a dress from her mother from Pertegaz or Balenciaga. The avant-garde is to recover a piece from the 50s and he has put it on now and it looks great.
And what happened to those critics?
They have disappeared, it is also the case of many stylists, before there were incredible, brutal teams. Spain has lost and is going to lose. I see the future of Spanish fashion as very black, as the big chains and the big groups do not bet on designers …
A catastrophic vision for someone who presents two collections in a week … What do you take to get excited after ideas like these?
The love for my work, I am passionate about it. If I don’t do this, what do I do? What do I do without fashion? And that I am going to open a hotel in a year and a half on the Camino de Santiago. But I really don’t see myself doing anything else, fashion deprives me, but it makes me sad to see that brands are in situations like the ones Del Pozo has experienced.
Nieves Álvarez, presenter of ‘Flash Moda’, with a designer dress.
What are we going to see these days in your presentations?
In the Jorge Vázquez fashion show, the most premium part, sewing, events… We are going to take a tour of the last two decades with very iconic garments of the brand such as tulle dresses, prints, that will remember the entire trajectory. I love it because we are going to do it at the Ritz, the hotel for which I designed the uniforms. In Pertegaz, this season you will see very ‘mainstream’ looks, it will be calmer than the first ones that were made. Full of neutrals and classics for a client who is not looking for a load of sewing and the crazy things we dared with in the first collection. We are also working on the Vázquez Madrid line, with which we intend to show a younger and more carefree line.
But you have also triumphed among young women with Pertegaz …
Yes, when they told us we couldn’t believe it. The style icon of the moment, Zendaya, with one of our looks. A phenomenon that I was unaware of at first and that I really discovered when one of our garments had 7 million likes.
And with these new characters come new times … What are you going to do in fashion? You’re going to cancel the seasons, right?
We are going to do two seasons, these cruise moves and others constantly producing clothes without stopping make you lose the illusion. I think that crazy consumption is not necessary. We have realized: if the cupboards were full in the pandemic, why accumulate? Buy yourself something good, that lasts. A good shoe, a quality bag… There are garments that should be important, they are things that were taught to us in our generation. Now anything goes, we buy garbage that leads to nothing.