You are currently viewing This is Leña and Smoked Room, the restaurants that Dani García has just opened in Madrid (and they are already sweeping)

These are two different concepts that share a location: a steakhouse and an exclusive space with a tasting menu for 14 people, where smoke and embers are the protagonists.

Dani Garca, at Lea Madrid.

Someone doubts the pull they have Dani Garca and your gastronomic projects? It is not necessary for the reservation website to go down – as it happened a few days ago after the opening of its two new restaurants, according to the chef himself – to confirm it. The Andalusian chef (Marbella, 1975), restless, determined, enterprising, determined … almost hyperactive, he has just inaugurated the expected Lea (Madrid branch of steakhouse namesake that opened in Marbella a year ago).

Lea is at the Hyatt Regency Hesperia Hotel, in the place she once occupied Santceloni, and arrives with surprise included, because from the bottom emerges a boutique restaurant for 14 people: Smoked Room. Two dining rooms with the same location and different proposals. It seems that Dani Garca -BiBo (Madrid, Marbella, Tarifa and Doha), Lobito de Mar (Marbella and Madrid), Lea (Marbella, in the defunct Dani Garca Restaurant, closed in 2019, one year after obtaining the three Michelin stars), Dani Brasserie (Four Seasons hotel Madrid) and the delivery La Gran Familia Mediterrnea- has taken a run and opens the concepts to pairs.

Saln de Lea Madrid.
Saln de Lea Madrid.

Both, Lea and Smoked Room, share, in addition to the postal address and the study that has been in charge of the interior design (Astet y Neolith), conductive wire: smoke. And even here, because each one has its place, its concept and its team. We start with the novelty within the novelty: Smoked Room. It is an exclusive space for grilled haute cuisine with a unique offer, the menu degustacin Fire Omakase, which adopts the Japanese concept of “putting yourself in the hands of the chef”. “It is a direct cuisine, thinking about the diner and not the ego of the cook”, explains the Andalusian chef. Thus, meat, fish, shellfish and vegetables are presented touched by smoke and embers, elaboration techniques to which is added the maturation of meats and fish, thanks to the two aging chambers they have.

Smoked Room.
Smoked Room.

And we go to the substance; that is, to that closed proposal that exceeds ten passes. For example, the yeast butter with grilled avocado. Or the version of a classic in the culinary history of the chef: the nitro tomato, which looks white here -and not the usual bright red- and with a mousse that tastes like smoked eel (Smoked nitro tomato 02). Or, following the game of wonder, a surprising Andalusian stew with seaweed and grilled caviar; a viceroy cured with sabayn in miso and peas; king crab tart … Dishes that will be changed depending on the day and the market.

The yakipinchos or toripinchos, the 'lee' version of the Japanese yakitori.
The yakipinchos or toripinchos, the ‘lee’ version of the Japanese yakitori.

In the liquid part, Smoked Room also has its course; namely, Own wine list by Rodrigo Gonzlez, in addition to distillates and cocktails.

We go back to Lea, which could be “the right eye” of Dani Garca if he had preferences, since it was the first concept what did i create after leaving haute cuisine and bet on something more uninhibited and casual. A modern space (you know, open kitchen and a central bar), where the blacks, wood and some gold and, of course, fire, embers and smoky flavor.

Foie to spread with roasted garlic (trompe l'oeil).
Foie to spread with roasted garlic (trompe l’oeil).

Here, technique and product go hand in hand to create a menu marked by the personal touch of the Andalusian chef and his international influences. Go for it. To start, grilled aubergine mashed with EVOO and pita bread (baba ganoush); grilled bimi and romesco sauce; charcoal leek, truffled Iberian pork mortadella, gribiche sauce and hazelnuts; Grilled Malaga avocado, young coriander pesto and vegetable splash with feta cheese or foie (apple trompe l’oeil) for a spread and roasted garlic and allied with lemon.

Grilled avocado with young coriander pesto and vegetable sprinkles.
Grilled avocado with young coriander pesto and vegetable sprinkles.

We can continue with him smoked beef pretzel, trtara sauce, pickle and pickled onion; the Turkish lamb kebab, yogurt sauce and pita bread; the yakipinchos o toripinchos (let it be leera of the famous Japanese yakitori) with chicken thigh, lemon wings, breast and green pesto … or also wagyu (limited edition). And, for the most carnivores, Iberian prey and feather, beef sirloin, beef tenderloin wagyu, old cow rib eye, among other cuts. Y matured meats, like the old cow steak or the beef steak.

We started with the restless Dani García and we will continue with him, because in the coming months he plans to continue his international expansion and open stores in London, Paris, New York, Miami and Saudi Arabia.

Smoked burrata.
Smoked burrata.

Lea: Paseo de la Castellana, 57. Reservations: 91 108 55 66. It does not close. Average price: 40-60 euros. Smoked Room: Paseo de la Castellana, 57. Reservations: 91 108 62 77. Closed Sundays and Mondays. Menu price: 135 euros; 80 euros (cellar).

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