You are currently viewing Estela Gutiérrez, the ‘queen’ of puff pastry opens a pastry shop in Madrid

His father transmitted his love for puff pastry, a product that has become his identity. A couple of weeks ago he opened his store, Estela Hojaldre, and on Monday he was in second place in the Madrid Fusin Revelation Pastry Award

Estela Gutirrez, in her new Madrid venue.
JAVIER SALAS

A little over two months ago, a store was vacated in its own building and Estela Gutirrez interpreted it as a sign. It was time to take the step and open his own pastry shop in Madrid. “I had not done it until now due to the pandemic, for fear of this situation, but there are trains that you have to catch when they pass,” he reflects. A couple of weeks ago he opened his store, Estela Hojaldre, and yesterday, Monday he was in second place in the 2021 Revelation Pastry Prize of Madrid Fusin. “I am very flattered to have shocked the jury with a seemingly simple and traditional dessert“, he said shortly after hearing the news.” It is a competition of the highest level where all participants had a chance to win.

Puff pastry is the undisputed protagonist of his space, the one that his father taught him to make in the family pastry shop in Cabezn de la Sal (Cantabria) and that since he arrived in the capital he has not stopped reaping compliments. “In my family we are real sick of the candy.” I flew from Cantabria to the capital four years ago for love and looking for new professional horizons. His first destination was Hojaldrera, a coffee shop near Puerta del Sol, which bet everything on this crunchy dough. Here his name began to sound. Estela’s millefeuille was a real hit. They were two intense years where croissants, some Nicaraguan chocolate palm trees, the puff pastry and the croissant breadTo mention some of her jewels, they placed her name on the lips of many sweet tooths and also colleagues from the profession, who discovered their teacher with the product. “Just by seeing and smelling the puff pastry she knows how long it will take,” recalls a colleague who worked with her. “Master the technique and control the entire process“.

A DEFINED STYLE

Defend the simple pastry maker, with little ornament. “I respect the creative pastry chef, but I don’t make pink cakes, it’s not my style. I prefer the color of cream, biscuit, chocolates … All natural, more neutral.” When he left Puff Pastry, he headed home. “I was a month in Cantabria”, lending a hand in the family pastry shop, which continues to be a benchmark in the area, and returned to Madrid. At the Panic bakery he began to sell millefeuille, palm trees, croissants, almond cakes, apple cakes … “He rented a space in his workshop and was a freelancer.” Again his name was on everyone’s lips. “Sell everything he made. Besides, he took private commissions.” Restaurants like Hortensio and Taberna Santerra, among others, bought their cakes. The idea of ​​setting up something of his own was already in his head, but the pandemic turned everything upside down.

Estela and her brothers (Mariola, Jos Manuel and Olivia) spent hours as children watching their father make puff pastry in the bakery. His first memory linked to the pastry chef is when his mother opens the windows of the house and the smell of sponge cake, biscuit and butter crept in. “It is a smell that I have incorporatedNow be your bakery that brings this aroma to your home.

THE NATURAL PLACE

From a very young age he went with his sister Mariola to help in Pastelera Pedro, the family business that was in front of his house. “My father was always a spectacular teacher,” she recalls excitedly. “He is the foundation of everything we do; we have only made small innovations.” However, both she and her sister, who today runs the store in Cantabria, decided to explore other sectors. “The two of us are studying to be a clinical assistant. I am super-squeeze and I can hardly see the blood, but I threw myself,” she says sarcastically sitting in a cafeteria in the Puerta de Alcal. As he finished his training, he asked for a step to start in the workshop and learn the trade. “It was clear that it was my natural place,” he laughs.

The millefeuille of Estela hojaldrera.
The millefeuille of Estela hojaldrera.

It was in the 1990s that his father began to specialize in puff pastry. “He was self-taught,” he clarifies. Consistency was his tool to advance and improve in his business. “He got up very early and was waiting all day for his product“Word of mouth quickly expanded the portfolio of private customers, but it also opened the doors of the hotel business.” They began serving restaurants in the area then. Today we have 30 clients. “

What is the secret of your puff pastry? “There is no secret. It’s all a matter of good ingredients and lots of love“, he answers humbly.” I, like my father, dedicate myself to this for pleasure and I think it shows in the result. “Flour and butter of the highest quality, time and” a lot of practice. You don’t learn to make puff pastry in a month or two. “If he has learned something from the trade, it is to respect the times.

The first time her father left her with her sister in charge of the business, she did not have them all with her. It was four years after working with him. “He went to Chile for a month and we stayed there.” A challenge that they overcame with flying colors.

The sweet has always been present at home. “My parents met through a cousin of my maternal grandmother who had a pastry shop in Cabezn,” he says. His father served in the military in the Navy and spent two years sailing the world: “On the ship he met an Italian who taught him the trade of pastry chef“On his return home, he began to work in the pastry shop of his cousin, who would later become his wife. Over time, Pedro opened his own business and his brother-in-law Santiago will do the same in Polanco, a nearby town. My uncle today He has his pastry shop in Bilbao.

Estela says that puff pastry is still “a great unknown”, which on many occasions has been unfairly relegated as mere snack dough. And its potential is “a filn”. It is made with three ingredients (water, flour and butter), but “it is a very capricious and very fickle product.” Part of your challenge in the phase that is starting now is to change the trend. “I love that people try what I do and discover what lies behind“He pretends to be in a store, he likes dealing with the public.” I am proud to bring a little piece of my land to the center of Madrid. ”

DISCUSS OVER THE DESSERT

But the business is not only growing in the capital; In Cabezn he plans to open a new pastry shop called Las Hijas de Pedro. Olivia, the youngest of the saga, has joined the adventure. “In our family, when we get together to eat, we only argue about dessert. My mother makes them very good and we never agree,” he says laughing. She also loves to cook when she leaves the bakery. “At home I’m always making cupcakes, cakes … My little daughter loves it.” Confinement was the perfect excuse to get deeper into the kitchen.

From his father he learned “to be constant and to enjoy the satisfaction of a customer with the product.” Of the best that has been said about his puff pastry, he remembers the words that a Madrileo said to him in Cabezn: “Your puff pastry is ground gold. You have to open in Madrid.” The wish has already been fulfilled.

Puff Pastry Stela. Plaza de Jess, 5. Tel .: 91 555 47 14. Web: estelahojaldre.es


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